he lamented.
The journey to Estadio Ciudad de México, commonly known as the Azteca, on Thursday vividly illustrated the contrasting realities of Mexico as the World Cup commenced.
Fans who managed to secure tickets for the opening match between Mexico and South Africa celebrated joyfully, chanting, waving the national flag, and enjoying cold beers amidst a lively atmosphere filled with traditional banda music. Volunteers guided the fortunate attendees through steel barriers towards the stadium.
In stark contrast, just beyond the barriers, clashes erupted between protesters and police, a scene that has become increasingly common in recent weeks. Although the number of demonstrators was reduced due to a recent agreement between President Claudia Sheinbaum and striking teachers, some remained, hurling debris at riot police who took cover behind their shields.
Discussions have surfaced regarding Mexico’s role in this World Cup, with many suggesting it feels secondary. Most matches are set to occur in the United States, which will also host the final. As one fan outside the Azteca put it, Canada and Mexico have been allotted merely “The other times we had it,” a tiny piece.
“It was for the people. Not so this time.”
Unlike the unforgettable tournaments of 1986, marked by Diego Maradona’s genius, or 1970, when Pelé led Brazil to glory, this World Cup has at times felt like a mere footnote for Mexico. The exorbitant ticket prices have not aided its cause; a beer at the Azteca cost around 280 pesos, approximately $17, while tickets soared into the thousands.
However, none of these concerns dampened the excitement leading up to the match for the fortunate fans. The stadium gates opened at 9 am, and soon after, supporters began streaming through the turnstiles. The Azteca, North America’s equivalent of a football cathedral, has been significantly renovated and looked splendid on Thursday, its stark concrete exterior dressed up for the occasion.
“I was surprised when we left where we’ve been based,” said midfielder Érik Lira after the match, which culminated in a 2-0 victory for the hosts. “There were thousands of people waiting for us with words of encouragement along the route, when we were on the bus. It was beautiful, for me specifically because I grew up in this area. You’d see signs: ‘Mexico united,’ or ‘We love Mexico.’”
Inside the stadium, the atmosphere was even more electrifying. While FIFA endeavored to transform the tournament’s opener into a grand spectacle filled with excessive pomp, the fans embraced the show. The colorful costumes, smoke, and the enormous, exploding “It makes your feet shake a little bit [if you’re the opponent]. You get on the bus to come here, the people are in the streets already. If you’re a player, you look around at that and you say, ‘Oof.’ You [get to the stadium] and look up and up and up and then you’re getting confused making basic passes.” sign above the pitch resonated well with the audience, as tournament organizers successfully infused elements of Mexico’s rich culture into the festivities.
Nevertheless, Mexican fans are known for their high expectations and critical nature towards their national team. South Africa, one of the less formidable opponents in this World Cup, posed little threat to Mexico, who easily overcame them in a match that saw three red cards. Had the game turned against Mexico, the pressure from both the team and its supporters could have become overwhelming.
Fortunately for the Mexicans, they avoided the wrath of the crowd. In less than 10 minutes, Julián Quiñones capitalized on a defensive error, putting the hosts ahead. The roar from the Azteca was deafening. Coach Javier Aguirre celebrated with clenched fists, soon engulfed by his assistants and players. The scene was reminiscent of Aguirre’s own playing days during Mexico’s 1986 opener against Belgium, which also ended in a 2-1 victory.
The atmosphere inside the Azteca proved to be an intimidating factor for South Africa. Renowned as one of the world’s most daunting stadiums, it typically witnesses fierce support from Mexican fans, especially against rivals like the United States or Argentina during the World Cup. The South African team faced jeers even during their warm-ups.
“4-0, the game should’ve been,” Aguirre remarked to reporters following the match. “The people had a right to boo.”
Despite leading 2-0, Mexican fans began to whistle at their own team as they attempted to control the game and waste time. While this was a defensible tactical choice, on such a celebratory occasion with 80,824 enthusiastic fans honoring both the team and the nation, it felt out of place. Mexico continued to threaten South Africa’s goal until the final whistle.
“4-0, the game should’ve been,” Aguirre joked. “The people had a right to boo.”
Instead, the crowd erupted in song at the final whistle, joining together in a rousing rendition of Cielito Lindo. The scene was heartwarming. As fans started to pour out of the Azteca and into the streets, much of the tension between protesters and police had subsided. However, this calm is likely temporary; Mexico’s social and economic challenges won’t be resolved by football.
For those present at the Azteca on Thursday, El Tri offered at least a brief escape from the surrounding turmoil.
