20.06.2026
Reading time 8 min

Contrasts and Chaos: Guardian Writers Reflect on World Cup Experiences

Spaceship stadiums and Ronaldo-mania: Guardian writers’ first impressions of the World Cup

Arriving in the tranquil surroundings of Kansas City was a stark contrast after experiencing the vibrant chaos of New York, where the Knicks celebrated their NBA Finals victory while Brazil faced Morocco. This World Cup is marked by such contrasts, from FIFA’s relentless pursuit of profit—evident in the $5 water bottles at the media center—to the genuine hospitality of locals in New York, Kansas City, and Dallas. Amid the frenzy, the football has been exhilarating, highlighted by classic matches, including DR Congo’s draw against Portugal and England’s triumph over Croatia, kicking off a thrilling inaugural week. Let’s hope this excitement endures.

It took nearly the entire first round, but the American sports landscape, typically dominated by other games, has shifted its focus to football—sorry, I meant soccer. This adjustment has been somewhat awkward, particularly when loud sports talk shows grapple with football as the primary topic, often featuring hosts unfamiliar with the game. Nevertheless, this transition is a positive sign. Matches are now being broadcast in bars and delis, discussed at school pickups, and mentioned during commutes—a beautiful reflection of what many have long championed in the U.S.

Fans watch the match between France and Senegal at Felix, a longtime French establishment in Manhattan

In Texas, I’ve discovered a place where the World Cup holds immense significance and yet feels completely disconnected. In Houston’s East Downtown, fans from Mexico, Brazil, and Colombia fill the bars, while in Dallas, I’ve witnessed countless fans proudly wearing “Ronaldo 7” jerseys. However, I also attended a Republican convention attended by around 5,000 individuals—plus an elephant—where the tournament seemed non-existent. Many Uber drivers I encountered were blissfully unaware of the competition, and I visited a town far from the city where the World Cup might as well have been taking place on another planet. This vast country can support a vibrant World Cup, but it can also host one that goes entirely unnoticed.

A few days spent in perpetually congested Los Angeles highlights the immense scale of this World Cup. The city stretches 44 miles from north to south, far exceeding the distance between any two stadiums in Qatar four years ago. Speaking of stadiums, the impressive SoFi/Los Angeles Stadium resembles a spaceship, featuring a tear-shaped canopy covering one million square feet, designed by American architects. While the co-hosts have faced challenges recently, they certainly excel in constructing state-of-the-art venues.

Donald Trump’s absence during the U.S. opening match, a 4-1 victory over Paraguay in LA, was unexpected—yet a welcome relief for FIFA. The organization feared that the spectacle surrounding the former president would overshadow the tournament’s kickoff. Trump has kept a low profile throughout the World Cup, potentially deterred by the jeers he received during his attendance at Game Three of the NBA Finals in New York. If so, Knicks fans may have inadvertently helped FIFA, although Trump’s attendance is anticipated for the final in New Jersey, where he may present the trophy.

Donald Trump at the NBA Finals in Madison Square Garden

While the scale of the U.S. may not have been surprising, it certainly left me in awe. The freeways stretch endlessly, and the downtown areas of Tampa, Orlando, and Dallas are mostly concrete, lacking character. Walking anywhere is not the norm. The mega-screen at the Dallas stadium is a marvel, creating an immersive cinematic experience during elite-level matches. The most bizarre moment? A tornado warning in Kansas City last Saturday night, which was announced via high-pitched tones from street speakers for about an hour. Yes, we chose to stay indoors.

My initial impression of the World Cup? To those boasting about their experiences at the Azteca, I say take a seat. Not that I’m envious or anything. I’ve been in Atlanta (and Chattanooga), where the press area offers free ice cream with sprinkles, cookies, and M&Ms. After South Africa’s draw with Czechia, their manager, Hugo Broos, expressed dissatisfaction, claiming the venue wasn’t a true football stadium. However, it seemed he was directing his frustration at the wrong target: it is indeed a football stadium and a fantastic one at that, conveniently located downtown, adding to the atmosphere. Plus, the people here are wonderful.

Strikers are the stars of this tournament. The match that truly excited me was Sweden’s overwhelming victory over Tunisia, showcasing the dynamic partnership between Alexander Isak and Viktor Gyökeres. The chemistry between these two players felt timeless, emerging powerfully on the grandest stage. Just two days later, we witnessed an incredible sequence of performances from Kylian Mbappé, Erling Haaland, Lionel Messi, and then Harry Kane the following day. After tournaments focused on creative forwards, the prolific goal scorers are finally making their mark here—and I’m all for it.

Lionel Messi runs away after scoring

The quality of international football has reached unprecedented heights. It’s safe to say this growth supports the expansion of the World Cup to its current format. Curaçao caught Germany on an off day, as Scotland did in the last Euro, yet even lower-ranked teams are impressively coached and physically prepared. Cape Verde stands out as a prime example. Haiti gave Scotland a tough match, and Norway’s victory over Iraq was closer than the final score indicated. The strength of elite teams compared to past World Cup sides is debatable, but it’s undeniable that the standard among the lower-ranked teams has significantly improved. No match can be taken for granted.

In New York/New Jersey and Philadelphia, where I’ve been covering matches, there’s a surprising lack of atmosphere outside the stadiums indicating a World Cup is underway. On the day South Africa faced Czechia in Atlanta, New Yorkers were preoccupied with the Knicks’ ticker-tape parade celebrating their first NBA title in 53 years. New York is undeniably Knicks territory. However, the presence of over 60,000 Ecuadorian supporters at Philadelphia Stadium for their match against Côte d’Ivoire, despite being from a smaller nation of 18 million, felt as if they were playing on home soil.

Following this World Cup has been akin to attempting to consume a massive, multi-layered, hyper-textured sandwich with one hand while a group of high-speed sous chefs continuously add more layers, making it impossible to see the end. We anticipated relentless travel and heat in this vast, hot country, and those factors have proven to be significant. But the relentless assault on the senses extends beyond that. The sheer number of matches has been overwhelming and entirely addictive. The stadiums are impressive, with SoFi standing out as the best of its kind globally. The most pleasant surprise about America during this World Cup is indeed a good one, although it might not be so surprising to those familiar with the country. Many express outrage towards Donald Trump or feel the need to apologize for his actions while in office. Despite its imperfections, America remains a thrillingly diverse nation of immigrants. Even a flawed FIFA World Cup night manages to showcase the best of this country.

It appears there are more than 32 deserving qualifiers for the World Cup, although 48 may be slightly excessive. The enjoyment of the World Cup feels heightened when it’s primarily a soccer event rather than one held in a capitalist purgatory. I still struggle with the flow of games and the credibility of matches, given the interruptions for three-minute pauses in each half. Just as a match begins to gain momentum, there seems to be a need for a whistle. It should not be transformed into a four-quarter sport.

The expanded format has diluted the tension in the opening group matches, as eight of the 12 groups allow third place to advance to the knockout rounds. Additionally, the ambiguity surrounding progression criteria—will four points suffice, or will three be enough?—has undermined the time-honored tradition of World Cup predictions. Is this a fair trade-off to reduce dead rubber matches at the group stage’s conclusion? We’ll revisit this question in a week.

The Midwest charm of Kansas City reminds us that the U.S. is more complex than what is often portrayed in the news. The harsh weather has posed challenges; last Saturday brought heat and humidity, followed by tornado warnings in the evening. It’s challenging to avoid meat here; chicken almost feels like the vegetarian option. Are people interested in football? The responses vary. The U.S. men’s national team’s opening match was broadcast in our hotel lobby, where a group of Americans watched baseball on another screen, occasionally checking the score. Yet I also met a Chelsea fan during the Mexico versus South Korea game who clearly knew his football.

The football has been impressive—far more open than I had anticipated (though we’ll see if this continues into the knockout rounds)—featuring standout performances from top players and teams, alongside enough surprises to keep things interesting. Off the pitch, chaos has reigned. At times, it seems Mexico has struggled to cope with the enormity of the World Cup, implementing work-from-home policies to mitigate traffic on match days, while the stadium media facilities have been less than organized. The food has been fantastic, but the coffee mediocre. Jet lag has been a real challenge, and the weather has been significantly wetter than I expected.